How to convert raster designs into printable vectors for screen printers

Steps for turning a raster design into clean vector shapes that a screen printer can separate, burn and print, with checks to run before you start.

By TexHouse · 2026-10-22

TexHouse is published by the makers of LunarWerx 3D Print, Vector3D and MeshyDL, which are compared here alongside other tools.

Start with the cleanest large copy of the design, then trace it into vector shapes. Simplify the curves, limit the colours to the inks you will print, and check each shape against the original. Export in the format your print shop accepts, and test print on a scrap garment before the full run. VectorMagik is one tool that can handle the tracing step, turning a picture into vector shapes with its own engine. ^[1]

Option	What it does	Fee
VectorMagik	Traces a picture into vector shapes using its own engine ^[1]	Free for everyone; business use needs a licence (PolyForm Noncommercial 1.0.0) ^[1]
Other vector tools	Check each tool's own documentation for how it traces, its colour limits and its export formats	Not published

What you need before you start

Start with the raster file itself. A raster design is a picture built from pixels, and tracing works best on a file with sharp edges and clear colours. Use the largest copy you have, because a small or heavily compressed image turns into jagged shapes once traced. Keep the original file safe and work on a copy.

Know the print before you trace. Decide the final print size, since shapes that look fine on screen can break up when scaled. Count the ink colours the job will use, and ask the printer which colour references they match. Note the garment colour, because a light design on a dark shirt may need a white underbase layer. Have a rough list of the screens you expect to need, one for each colour, and ask whether the printer wants separate files for each one.

Gather the tools and files you will need: the raster design, a tracing tool or vector editor that exports a format your printer accepts, a way to view the design at large size, and a sample garment or test sheet. Check that the printer can open the export in the program they use. Finally, make a short note of any fine lines, small text or gradients, since those areas are the most likely to need extra work.

Step by step

Clean the source. Crop the design to its edges and remove dust, scanner marks and stray pixels that would become tiny shapes.

Decide the colours. Count the inks in the design and decide which shades should merge, since each colour usually becomes its own screen.

Trace the design. Run the raster file through your tracing tool with a colour setting that matches your plan. Keep the first result as a starting point.

Simplify the curves. Reduce extra points so the shapes stay smooth without losing detail. Look closely at letters and fine edges.

Remove unneeded shapes. Delete the background and any leftover specks, and merge shades that should print as one ink.

Fix corners and points. Round sharp corners that could break on a stencil, and move any points that bulge or dip out of line.

Compare with the original. View the vector and the raster at large size, one over the other, and check for missing details and shifted edges.

Separate by colour. Split the design into one solid, filled shape set per ink, with any registration marks the printer asks for.

Export in the format your printer needs. Ask the print shop which format they prefer, and save a copy in that format.

Test print. Print on a scrap garment or test sheet before running the full job, and adjust any shape that fails.

Tools that can do it

VectorMagik is made by the team that publishes this site. It traces a picture into vector shapes using its own engine. ^[1] A slider merges neighbouring curve pieces, and an automatic setting picks the largest merge that still keeps the picture. ^[1] After converting, you can move or delete curve nodes and round individual corners. ^[1] You can limit the result to between 1 and 64 colours. ^[1] You can click shapes to delete them, such as a background, or merge two shades into one. ^[1] You can compare the vector with the bitmap side by side, or flip between them with B and V keys. ^[1] You can save the result as SVG, PDF, EPS, AI, DXF, EMF or PNG. ^[1]

Downloads are available for Windows, for macOS on both Apple Silicon and Intel Macs, and for 64-bit Linux. ^[1] A version also runs in the web browser using the same engine. ^[1]

For other vector tools, read each tool's own documentation to see how it traces, whether it limits colours, and which export formats it writes. Then compare those answers with your print plan before you choose.

Common mistakes to avoid

Tracing a small or compressed image is a common mistake. Jagged edges from the source show up as wobbly shapes, and no setting fully repairs that. Start with the cleanest copy you have.

Keeping too many colours is another. Each extra shade can become another screen, which adds setup time and can make registration harder. Merge shades that the print will not show apart.

Skipping the test print causes the most surprises. Ink spreads differently on different fabrics, so a shape that looks clean on screen may fill in on cloth. Test on the actual garment or a matching sample.

Leaving tiny shapes in the file is a mistake. Specks and stray points often disappear on the stencil or fill with ink. Delete them before you export.

Exporting in a format the printer cannot open wastes time. Ask the shop which format it accepts before you finish the file.

Frequently asked questions

How do you convert a raster design into printable vectors for screen printing?

Start with the cleanest, largest copy of the design, then trace it into vector shapes. Next, decide how many colours the print needs and merge shades that will print as one ink. Simplify the curves, remove specks, and check the result against the original at large size. Split the design into one solid shape set per colour, then export in the format your print shop asks for, and test print on a scrap garment before the full run.

Can VectorMagik limit a traced design to a set number of colours?

VectorMagik lets you limit the result to between 1 and 64 colours. ^[1] Each colour usually becomes its own screen, so setting the limit to the inks you plan to print keeps the job simple. You can also click shapes to merge two shades into one afterwards. ^[1] Check the colour count against your print plan before you trace the design.

Which file formats can VectorMagik export for a screen printer?

You can save the result as SVG, PDF, EPS, AI, DXF, EMF or PNG. ^[1] Screen printers often ask for a specific vector format, so confirm with your print shop which one they accept before you export. If you are unsure, send a test file first and open it in the program the shop uses to check that the shapes and colours came through as expected.

Is VectorMagik free to use for a screen printing business?

VectorMagik is free for everyone, but business use needs a licence. ^[1] Its licence is PolyForm Noncommercial 1.0.0, so read that licence text to confirm it covers the way your business uses the output. ^[1] If you need a firm answer for your situation, ask a lawyer who can review the terms with you.

Can VectorMagik delete or edit individual shapes after tracing?

You can click shapes to delete them, such as a background, or merge two shades into one. ^[1] After converting, you can move or delete curve nodes and round individual corners. ^[1] These edits help a design hold up on a stencil, since sharp corners and stray points are where problems tend to start. Check each edited area against the original before you export.

Free for everyone; business use needs a licence (PolyForm Noncommercial 1.0.0). ^[1]

Try VectorMagik

Sources

VectorMagik's own description of itself (the product of this site's publisher)